We left Stornoway at about 10:30 a.m. for Scrabster, lying on the Scottish mainland opposite of the Orkneys.  For the passage of about 120 nm, we calculated arriving the following day in the early morning. We had given up the original plan of intercepting the passage by anchoring in beautifull Loch Eribol, which lies quite conveniently half way on the north coast of Scotland. In the course of the next day as on the following days, sharp north-easterly winds were predicted, which would have meant an uncomfortable and long passage, beating against a headwind. So we wanted to get it over with in one go. A fine breeze from north-west ushered us up to the Cape: Wrath, the turning point, named so by the Vikings who turned southward around it a thousand years ago. The cliffs rose, huge, ghostly in the receding daylight. And as predicted surrounded even in this calm weather by a heaving Atlantic swell. As the wind dropped away to nothing, we rolled on under engine. We had never before experienced sailing at night along a coast so completely in the dark. No onshore light, no hint of any inhabitation whatsoever for hours, until the lights of Dounreay nuclear power station came into sight.