After having rounded Ardnamurchan Point the Small Isles lay ahead of us. Muck, Rhum, Egg and Canna. No four could be more different: Rhum rising tall, its flanks falling like green curtains, its peaks like miniture Cullins, Muck flat and fertile, farmed to its edges, Eigg of volcanic origin but flat topped and Canna mountainous with white sandy beaches. All have their appeal, but we had to decide on two, as we had Talisker Bay on Skye on our agenda too.
Muck and Canna
Talisker Bay
It is said that once the Highlanders raided Wick on east-coast of Scotland and returned to their clan village with 100 barrels of Whisky and a loaf of bread, so the women asked: what shall we do with all that bread?
This underlines the importance Whisky had for Scotland then, which it still has today. We learned that Talisker alone has an annual output of 3.5 million liters. Every single bottle of Talisker, which is sold in the remotest corner of the world, originates from this very secluded glen on Skye. We found these facts really amazing.
We had been lucky to moor on the pontoon where there was room for two boats only, the other boat being prestigious „Wappen von Bremen“. A hefty breeze of 6 and above was whistling through the glen, whipping up nasty waves. It would have been quite a wet job to get ashore with the dinghy. This is what we wanted to do, as we had booked a tour and tasting in Talisker distillery. And of course Alex did not leave the place with empty hands. For dinner we turned to the „Old Inn“, highly recommendable in terms of taste and atmosphere. The wind was still blowing like crazy, so Arielle gently rocked us to sleep.
We found this part of Scotland to be an ideal cruising ground. It provides for a spectacular scenery, secure anchorages and nice people.We saw amaizing flocks of seabirds, dolphines and seals. If a safe haven is required, you can find it in Oban, Tobermory or Mallaig, all in the right distance to provision on fuel and water. And then there are on all islands, small as they are, community shops (on Canna the „community“ consisting of exactly 19 souls). In these charming shops you will find produce of the islands, like jam, honey, vegetables but also lamb and venison meat or handcrafted goods like knitted socks or small paintings. Take what you need, write it down in a scrap book and deposite the money in an honesty box, all on good faith. The same means of payment applies to the mooring fees, in case you chose to pick up a buoy.
„The western lands are where mists fall and enwrap the world in grey, grim silence. Then, on a summer‘s afternoon, the darkness melts and the astonishing beauty is before you. Distant blue mountains shade down to the sea, swatches of every green, of purple, of grey rise from the water, coloured by moving clouds above“. This is how Libby Purves described it in 1988, and this is how we too experienced the beauty of it all today.
What keeps a sailor diligent in this region are the winds, which tend to be variable. They often kept us busy reefing in and out and reefing in again. Sometimes the wind fell away to nothing, so that we made only snail-like progress and could not restist switching on the engine. Only to pick up again to full force after a short while.
3 Gedanken zu „The Western Isles“
Wunderschöne Bilder und wunderbare Geschichten 🙂
Weiterhin viel Spaß und liebe Grüße vom Markus
Wouw, Tallisker and leaving it with full hands – that is good news for the ones who stayed at home – so please take it easy with it – I am looking forward to a cigar and a sip of Tallisker – if I may….
3 Gedanken zu „The Western Isles“
Wunderschöne Bilder und wunderbare Geschichten 🙂
Weiterhin viel Spaß und liebe Grüße vom Markus
Wouw, Tallisker and leaving it with full hands – that is good news for the ones who stayed at home – so please take it easy with it – I am looking forward to a cigar and a sip of Tallisker – if I may….
You may…it‘s a deal!