2017 Channel Crossing
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Last year we could make ourselves familiar with Arielle, we made mistakes and learned from them and most important, we gained a lot of confidence in our boat. So this year we wanted to realize our dream: crossing the Channel and finally hoisting the Union Jack on starboard. We took the same route as last year, via Amsterdam and Ijmuiden to Scheveningen. From there we set off westward, crossed the Maas mouth and passed the Schelde islands. We reached the marina of Blankenberge after a long day of sailing just about sundown. A friendly harbour mistress welcomed us cordially, assigned us a berth and took our lines. In this neat marina with speckless facilities bikes are available for free. With these we cycled to Brugges the next day, a city which is a marvelous Belgian gem. The next leg took us to Dunkirk, where we rafted up alongside another German sailor. The friendly yachtsman invited us for a drink on his boat, with which he was traveling with his three-generation family. It became an unforgettable evening, from which we took with us valuable tips for our onward voyage and furthermore a precious gift, a unique „Buddelschiff“ (ship in a Bottle) self-made by the yachtsmen himself!
Nachdem wir uns im letzten Jahr mit Arielle vertraut machen konnten, Fehler machten und daraus lernten und vor allem Vertrauen gewonnen hatten in unser Schiff, wollten wir dieses Jahr den Plan, überzusetzen nach England und endlich den Union Jack an Steuerbord zu hissen, verwirklichen. Wir nahmen wieder den gleichen Weg wie im vergangen Jahr, über Amsterdam und Ijmuiden nach Scheveningen. Von dort ging’s diesmal weiter westwärts, die Maasmündung querend, vorbei an den Scheldeinseln bis zum ersten belgischen Hafen. Wir erreichten die Marina von Blankenberge nach einem langen Segeltag kurz vor Sonnenuntergang. Eine nette Hafenmeisterin nahm uns gleich in Empfang, wies uns eine Box zu und nahm dort gleich noch die Leinen an. In dieser adretten Marina gibts Fahrräder zum Ausleihen gratis. Mit denen machten wir am nächsten Tag einen Ausflug nach Brügge, diesem wundervollen belgischen Kleinod. Die nächste Etappe ging bis Dünkirchen. Dort angekommen machten längsseits an einem anderen Segler fest. Der freundliche Eigner lud uns zu einem Umtrunk auf sein Boot ein, mit dem er mit seiner Dreigenerationen Familie unterwegs war. Es wurde ein langer, unvergesslicher Abend, von dem wir neben vielen Tips für unsere Weiterfahrt auch ein von ihm selbstgebasteltes Buddelschiff mitnahmen.
The following day we set off to cross the Channel. From Dunkirk it takes only a day to reach the British coast. About 2 miles off Dover we obliged to making the mandatory VHF call informing Dover port control on channel 74 about our intention to enter the harbour. Approaching the breakwaters we called again and were directed to a berthing in the tidal harbour. A friendly lady form the neighboring boat took our lines and welcomed us. She inquired where we were from, a question I would expect when coming from really far away. For us it felt just right.
The next day we toured the city and visited Dover castle. What we had not expected were the signs of poverty to be seen everywhere. Houses in urgent need of refurbishing, shops closed down or displaying cheap garments of dubious quality, Chinese and Pakistani eateries, small grocery stores selling imports from Poland. We had believed Dover to be a flourishing city earning money with its busy harbour. It dosn’t really seem to add to prosperity for the city, we guessed the cash must be flowing elsewhere. However, the visit to the magnificent castle showed us how much is done to preserve the British heritage no matter the cost. In the evening we enjoyed a beer in the Cullins Yard Bar, a marvelous and authentic harbour pub with live music.
It is a short sail from Dover to Ramsgate. This gorgeous English town is situated close to the entrance of the Thames Estuary. And it is home of the Royal Temple Yachts Club, where visiting yachtsmen are welcomed to have a drink in one of the leather cushioned lounge chairs. Which we did of course, admiring the polished brass sailing competition trophies displayed on numerous shelves. We also explored the surroundings, cycling on a beautiful summers day along the coast of Kent, around the headland as far as Margate.
Heading further north along the east coast of Great Britain meant crossing the Thames estuary. This maze of sandbanks strewn in our way required careful pilotage. We headed for Harwich, from where we wanted to follow Jockels (the German sea-farer from Dunkirk) recommendation to proceed upstream the river Orwell to Wolverstone Marina. We needed this reassurance from someone with local knowledge to venture so far upstream of this river, which in part drys out at low water. We took the outermost berth of the marina in deep enough water. What a pity it would have been to leave this spot out. The scenic banks of the river Orwell are pictoresque with pastures and woodland alternating and there is this sailors insider tip to visit: the Pin Mill!! Which we did of course. And an hours bike ride away there is Ipswich, a town with much Tudor charm definitely worthwhile visiting.
From Lowestoft we planned our passage across the North Sea back home to the Netherlands. Of course not without taking our time to visit this formerly renowned sea bath. It offers quite a lot of formidable mansions, reminiscent of better days. Also in this town a descend of economic prosperity is apparent. Nowadays the better off probably prefer to spend their vacation abroad.
Heading back home on a direct course meant a first night sail with Arielle...awesome!
The distance from Lowestoft to the Netherlands is about 110 nm. For this trip we calculated round about 22 hours. An early start at 07:00h would assure an arrival at the inlet between the mainland and the island of Texel in time for catching a favorable tide. The wind was predicted 5 to 6 btf. from the South, later decreasing. But before it did us this favor, it picked up at nightfall and sent squalls in our direction. Even with wind from the aft quarters it was not a pleasant ride and it was topped with our foresail being torn apart in total darkness in the middle of the night. I don’t remember how we did it, but we actually managed to tame the vigerously flapping sail and to lash it down somehow. Somewhat battered we reached Oudeschild in the morning, licked our wounds and treated ourselves to a hearty breakfast. And we enjoyed a couple of relaxing summer holi-days on this wonderful island.